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The Definitive Guide to Delhi: our discoveries from the last decade in Delhi

Updated: Feb 21

The birthplace of House of Wandering Silk is the massive metropolis of Delhi, a 1500 square kilometer sprawl in the northern plains of India. Home to 20 millions souls and our small House of Wandering Silk family and studio.


Many travellers launch their exploration of India from here, leaving as fast as the jet lag wears off. But the more familiar Delhi becomes, the more she pulls, like a magnet. It’s a city in constant flux and full of surprises; she delights, fascinates, frustrates and confounds in equal measure. Delhi blends a living, thriving antiquity (see: Chandni Chowk, Qawwali at Nizammudin Dargah), stunning historic monuments (see: Humayun’s Tomb, Lodhi Garden), an energetic and compelling design scene (see: House of Wandering Silk - of course we can’t leave ourselves off the list!, Pero, Bodice), a burgeoning coffee culture (see: Cafe Dori, Quick Brown Fox), and a lively cultural scene (See: Piano Man, Art Heritage Gallery).


We hope that by sharing our favourite parts of Delhi, including some of her hidden gems that you won’t find in your guidebook, we can encourage you to spend an extra few days here. Or maybe, like us, you’ll end up spending over a decade…


Places to EXPERIENCE





Break yourself in gently, with a stroll through this sprawling 90 acre park filled with meandering pathways set amongst seasonally refreshed and diverse flower gardens under a lush, green canopy of trees. You’ll find clean bodies of water with fountains in the middle, stone bridges and sprawling maintained lawns set amongst 500-year-and-older ruins and tombs.


Chandni Chowk

Or throw yourself in the deep end by taking the ultra modern metro to the the heart and soul of this city. An otherworldly and altogether ancient India, Old Delhi is a treasure trove of crumbling havelis; a jumble of one-room workshops and stores doing everything from packing sweets to book binding to selling wedding saris and fragrant oils; a constant flow of labourers and cycle rickshaws moving boxes; and everywhere - food! Go with no plans except to get lost and spend your day wandering and eating. Be sure to take a cycle rickshaw ride…





The main Friday Mosque of Delhi, this astoundingly beautiful building, in the heart of Old Delhi, oozes history and a bustling energy. Equal parts religious prayer site and family hangout location, the mosque should be on any to-see list of Delhi. Slowdown, sit under the red stone arches and watch all the colourful life pass before you.





Almost rivalling the Taj Mahal in beauty, but with less crowds, Humayun’s tomb speaks to Delhi’s long-standing history as the capital for many diverse empires that reigned throughout the ages. The Mughal empire that ruled India from the 1500-1800’s commissioned Humayun’s tomb to be built as their first iconic, architectural marvel - a study in grandiose symmetry and delicate stone inlay ornamentation work. Humayun’s tomb doesn’t stop short of impressing with it’s red sandstone and white marble double dome ceilings, symmetrical and connecting chambers, and arched entryways featuring stone latticework and ornamentation. For a serene experience, we recommend making a visit in the morning right when it opens, otherwise expect it to be crowded with large families enjoying the open gardens on the weekend.









Thursday Qawwali at Nizamuddin Dargah

This is one of my all-time favourite Indian - worldwide, in fact - experiences. Every Thursday evening in a historic and incredibly atmospheric mausoleum of a Sufi saint, located in Nizammudin village in South Delhi, Sufi musicians come together to play and sing haunting qawwali, this includes the Nizami brothers, descendants of Nizamuddin Auliya, whose family have been singing here for more than 700 years. To reach the mausoleum you have to find your way through a maze of very small alleys, packed with people and kebab dhabas.

Tip: Be sure to cover your head upon entering and leave your shoes at the gate.




Free, diverse cultural events

From music, theatre, comedy stand up to cinema and exhibitions, these centres have a rich cultural mix of events going on all the time: India Habitat Centre and India International Center. It’s also worth checking events run by the cultural institutes of the embassies, like the Alliance Francaise, The Goethe Institute and The American Centre.


Surajkund Mela | Faridabad

Every year from 1-10 February, artisans from all over the country gather at this massive fair on the south edge of Delhi. A sprawling space crowded with artisanal stalls, cultural events and food vendors, this is one of the best events in the country to see so much of India’s cultural heritage in one place. One section is devoted to groups coming from overseas, with a surprising mix of Southeast Asia, Central Asian and North African craft vendors. It’s bordering slightly on the kitsch side - you’ll need to sift through the more mass produced stuff and middle men, but if you keep a keen eye out, you’ll be rewarded with some of India’s most beautiful textiles and crafts discoveries!

Dastkar Bazaar | Andheria Modh

For a great Sunday activity, visit this permanent outdoor bazaar that hosts a couple of mainstay and several rotating vendor stalls, bringing together the diverse craftspeople of India and promoting the practical economic exchange of buying from the artisans directly so they take home a larger share of the profit.



Image @dastkar.delhi



National Craft Museum | Pragati Maidan

An extensive, indoor/outdoor space that acts as a physical encyclopaedia of India’s extensive and diverse craft traditions. Obviously we’re partial to the textile gallery— amongst it’s treasures are rare, brocade Baluchari saris, Kutch embroidery, and Kashmiri dushalas. The Bhuta Sculpture Gallery is also fascinating.

A modern, multi-level gallery that exhibits contemporary Indian art. Recommend going on an exhibit's opening night when the lawn turns into a catered who’s who event.


Art Heritage Gallery | Triveni Kala Sangam, Mandi House

A long-standing Delhi institution, promoting the arts since the 1970’s. A favorite weekend outing begins with meeting friends here to see the latest contemporary artist exhibit, grabbing a bite at the Triveni Terrace Cafe and catching a dance performance at the outdoor amphitheater in the evening.







Image @globustravelsindia



 


Places to DRINK // CHAI, COFFEE & COCKTAIL CULTURE

Street chai | A MUST!

Be sure to order with adrak (ginger) for a winter warmer, or elaichi (cardamom) for a summer flavour.

Tip: Don’t pay more than Rs.30-50.


Indian Coffee House | Connaught Place

You come here rather for the history than the coffee. Dating to 1957, the Indian Coffee House is part of a chain run by the Indian Coffee Worker’s Cooperative Society and in it’s heyday was a hub of intellectual debate. Read an interesting article on the history and decline of the Indian Coffee House here.


Blue Tokai | Hauz Khas

Delhi’s craft coffee scene would be years behind if it was not for Blue Tokai. They were the first to really pioneer speciality coffee and gear their ambience to the creative work space crowd. I’m obsessed with their nutty, caramely cold brew coffee! In the last year they’ve teamed up with the bakery, Sauchali’s, which makes some of the best croissants, cookies, and loaves of bread we’ve tasted in India yet.

Cafe Dori | Dhan Mill, Chhatarpur

Started by the same brain team behind Nappa Dori and all living in the same open, remodeled warehouse space, this hip and popular cafe features delicious coffee and scrumptious western style dishes using more experimental, seasonal ingredients. High ceilings and bright, natural light. A super place to get some work done on your laptop!

Tip: Excellent gluten free food is available here.



Image Cafe Dori Facebook



Coffee Bond | Greater Kailash Part 1

Our neighborhood favorite for grabbing a quick cup, that offers various techie methods for brewing a nutty and flavorful arabica bean. The bright, millennial space is set on the second floor of a building on the southwest corner of M-Block market. Your visit may be limited by how long you can manage to sit in the uncomfortable chairs. It’s sister over in the Uday Park neighborhood boasts a slightly more sophisticated aesthetic and is staffed by all women.


Quick Brown Fox Coffee Roasters | Dhan Mill, Chhatarpur

If you take your craft coffee seriously, this is the place for you! One of the few independently owned coffee shops where you can get a consistent pour over or nitro cold brew - the food is as good as the coffee. Beautiful natural light and open air feel.



Image Studio LCD



A glimpse into what it looks like when India and Japan merge; an unassuming tea house opened by a Japanese-owned and -run tea export business, sourcing high quality Darjeeling tea. Low hanging ceilings and chock full of tea wares; this place is quirky and full of character, and a welcome corner of serenity in the bustling city.





Sidecar Cocktail Bar | Greater Kailash Part 2

A 1920’s speakeasy style bar serving the best liquors available and spinning up very satisfying craft cocktail, cue the myriad spinoffs of the classic Sidecar, but the Whiskey Sour is about as good as it gets.


Piano Man | Safdarjung Enclave

A gift to the musicians and music lovers of Delhi. This place is a hub for live music and cocktails set in an intimate, dimly lit space. It can get pretty packed on the weekend, when the tables are moved to open up the dancing floor!





Imperial Hotel | Janpath

The most beautiful hotel in the city will take you back half a century to a romanticized colonial age. Lovely etchings line the corridors that take you to the 1911 Bar and the beautiful garden patio where we recommend you go old-school and order a G&T.



Hand painted scenes of a past era line the walls of the 1911 Bar in the Imperial Hotel


 


Places to EAT // SMALL BITES TO BIG MEALS


Cafe Lota | National Craft Museum, Pragati Maidan

An outdoor space of the National Craft Museum that’s been transformed into a laid back restaurant, featuring a mini culinary tour of the local dishes from India’s many diverse regions, using ingredients that are wholesome and rich - ancient grains, ghee, and quality dairy. Tasty! Be sure to try the Subudana Popcorn for something new altogether and don’t miss the Kerala Vegetable stew - it’s delicious.


Image @siddhant.23


Latitude | Khan Market

Tucked away at the top of Good Earth is lovely Latitude Cafe, part of the Diva chain of restaurants. Excellent and fresh (though pricey) food and good coffee and deserts in a very beautifully designed and decorated interior. The goat cheese salad and cappuccino make up our weekly Sunday brunch ritual; add in a few magazines from Bahrisons Book Shop down the lane, and you’ve got yourself the perfect set up for a relaxing hour or two. Avoid peak eating times, as the space is very small and fills up quickly.


Oh Calcutta! | Nehru Place

The best of Bengali cuisine and a seafood lover’s must. Be sure to try the Bhekti Macher Paturri (Asian sea bass in a spicy mustard paste steamed in banana leaves) and famous Mishti Doi (Begali brown yogurt) for dessert. Plenty of veg and chicken choices for those apprehensive about fish.


Juggernaut | Greater Kailash Part 1

Our favorite South Indian restaurant brimming with the best of Indian hospitality - think hand painted colorful art, sitar music, wafting incense and a tilak applied to the forehead as you enter. Very classic creamy curries, flaky roti’s, and puffy dosas. And true to South Indian cuisine, it is all vegetarian.




Little Saigon | Hauz Khas

A ridiculously sweet and hospitable Vietnamese couple bring home-cooked Vietnamese food to the youthful, creative crowd of Delhi. A hole in the wall, tucked away in the Hauz Khas Market, with just four tables and a handful of plastic chairs. If that alone doesn’t transport you to Saigon, then the tasty Pho and Bun Cha will. Don't let the look fool you!


Image @notyourspacemonkey


Greenr Cafe | Vasant Vihar

One of the few restaurant of it’s kind, we have Greenr to thank for trailblazing plant based, processed free, nutrient dense food in Delhi. Fresh smoothies and cold pressed juices, sumptuous green salads and hearty rice and quinoa based bowls served on beautiful pottery. Set in an alternative lifestyle space that showcase and sell a handful of local ceramic, clothing and jewelry artisans.

Tip: Excellent gluten free food is available here.


Image begreenr



Sagar Ratna | Defense Colony

There are just some traditions one should keep when visiting India. For me, within days of returning back to India, I have to go here and order myself a Masala Dosa and South Indian Filter coffee. The place is intimate, overstaffed, and full of Indian families, which is really the most reliable tip off to a great dosa experience.


Gung the Palace | Green Park

Looking for an alternative to Indian cuisine? This is the best recommendation we can give you - Gung is one of our all-time favourite restaurants, established by a Korean expat in Delhi; the food is authentic and delicious, the ambience is pure-Korea, and you’ll be blown away by the free serving of a heap of banchan small plates before you’ve even decided what you want to order! Expect private tatami-clad eating areas, Korean TV playing on the walls, and Japanese salary men doing business over Cheongju rice wine.



Image @radiantsparkles



Moti Mahal | Greater Kailash Part 1

From the kitchen that invented the ubiquitous Butter Chicken sometime in the 1950s. The story has it that the cooks of Moti Mahal would mix leftover marinade juices with butter and tomato, and then stew the tandoor-cooked chicken in it, little realising they were creating what would become one of the best known Indian dishes, at least outside India! This dimly lit, overstaffed and crowded restaurant is a Delhi institution. Expect tasty but standard North Indian cuisine and reasonable prices.


Jamun | Lodhi Colony

The ambience is a bit vain and posh, but you will get a more westernized version of Indian curries along with inventive cocktails using some of the more exotic flavors and spices from this country.



Images @worldofdelhi & @mukul1606



Nature’s Soul | Defense Colony Market

One for the self-caterers: a veritable hub for the natural food movement that really seems to be taking off here and well visited by many of the Expats that live in Defense Colony. This compact shop sources some of the best artisanal products from around India and offers a small, rotating menu of healthy sweets and gluten free breads, not to mention freshly prepared meals for takeaway.


Leo’s Artisan Pizza | Vasant Vihar

The best pizza east of Italy, that we’ve found (yet). The gossip is that they import a specially sifted, high gluten flour to give their dough a distinctive chew, all hand tossed and fired in the wood oven right there. A Prosciutto di Parma e Rucola once a week, please.



Image @weknowpizza



Fabcafe | Lajpat Nagar

Reinventing home cooked Indian food for the healthy, dietary limited crowd— gluten-, dairy-, grain- and processed oil/sugar-free takes on classic Indian dishes. Spinach, Spring Onion and Water Chestnut Momos and Classic Saag paneer amongst our top fav.

Tip: Excellent gluten free food is available here.



Image @whatshappening365


Goa Niwas canteen & other state houses | Chanakyapuri

A little known arsenal of culinary delights awaits you in the state houses scattered around Chanakyapuri in central New Delhi. These are complexes built to house and feed visiting state dignitaries and government staff when they come to Delhi for work. Most have old-school canteens open to the public, where you can eat your way through authentic, tasty and cheap local dishes from across India. Our favourites: Nagaland House for the phenomenal pork chops; Goa Niwas for the crab and prawn dishes; Jammu & Kashmir House of the kebabs and kahwa; and Andhra Bhavan, which is amongst the most popular for their thalis.


Karim’s | Chandni Chowk

Another Delhi institution, located in the heart of old Delhi: In the mid 19th century, Mohammed Aziz was a cook in the royal court of the Mughal Emperor. His son, Haji Karimuddin, moved back to Delhi in 1911, when Delhi Durbar was held for the coronation of King George V, with an innovative idea of opening a Dhaba offering Mughal dishes to cater to people coming from all over India to join the coronation. Haji Karimuddin started the Dhaba selling just two items: Alu gosht (mutton with potatoes) and Daal (lentil curry) served with Rumali Roti. In 1913, Haji Karimuddin established the Karim Hotel in Gali Kababian, near Jama Masjid, Delhi saying, "I want to earn fame and money by serving the royal food to the common man”. Today, the fourth generation is running the business, which has spread eateries across Delhi.

Source: Wikipedia.





A sad note to end on is that with the immense, recent fame achieved by Karim’s in the last decade or so, the quality of it’s dishes has dropped dramatically. It’s certainly worthwhile eating here occasionally, but it will be the ambience, not the food, that brings you back.


Meetha Paan | Street vendors across Delhi

A truly unique Indian gustatory experience! Meetha Paan is made to order on the street side by dedicated paan wallah. It's made up of an envelope of betel leaves stuffed with mixed, sweet jam-like spreads, crunchy bits of dried coconut, cherries and chopped dates, and typical mouth-freshener spices like fennel and anise. It’s sweet, juicy and almost impossible for a beginning to eat gracefully. In fact, it’s not exactly a food - you squeeze the paan into the side of your mouth where you suck and spit it for as long as you like. Whatever is left can be spat out. We do advise you take your paan from a very clean vendor - virgin stomachs will suffer otherhwise!